How to Make Warhammer Modeling Flock

by Matthew Glanfield



Spending almost $200 of your budget for a modeling flock is too big just to produce a 4' x 4' grassland gaming board. Is always be a problem you will face in making a gaming terrain but this will not be a hindrance for you to experiment on what decision to undertake. Because you want to work on a small budget this is something you had get over.
Doing research on Yahoo or Google on how to create a modeling flock or by just simply asking a friend who knows how to create one. That can lower the $200 to a $10 or less. But be sure to watch and read on the instructions for they will cause you problems in the results of your modeling flock. You should admit that making your first modeling flock will not be that easy for it will not produce similar to the modeling flock that cost $200. You should not be afraid to try every thing every possible way to have your modeling flock be the flock you want.
Without further delay the content of this article is the detailed instruction on how to make a modeling flock.

Step 1 - Get Your Materials Ready
Here is what you’ll be needing:
-a container to mix it in (we use a gallon sized ice cream container)
-a cookie sheet to dry the modeling flock on (don’t use new ones, your mother / wife won’t be happy)
-a tube of green paint (in the picture it shows a tube of blue paint and a tube of yellow paint, but we found it easier to just get a tube of green paint)
-water
-a stirring stick
-sawdust (that’s right, modeling flock is just dyed sawdust!)
-a fine strainer
The tubes of paint that we use are 4 U.S. fl oz, or 118 mL. We buy them at the dollar store for $1.
You can get the sawdust from any lumber mill that near your place. They should be more than happy to hand over a garbage bag full free of charge. If not, then just find someone you know who is a carpenter.
Take note that the sawdust should have been made from sanding, not from cutting wood.

Step 2 - Dilute The Paint
First you will need to dilute the paint that you are going to use to dye the saw dust. The amount of paint that you water down will determine how much flock you will make.
You will discharge the entire 118 mL tube of green paint into the container and then fill the container 3cm (about 1 1/4 inches) full of water.
WARNING: If you water down the paint too much your flock will be brown.
This is the common mistake which will end up with ugly stuff and waste. Even though it started out a nice green it will end up an ugly brown, which was useful only to be used as dirt and not grass. But we are going to create a grassland so better careful.

Mix the water and paint with a stirring stick. You can use any typical stirring sticks that you get from the paint stores, but you can really use anything that you don’t care getting stained with green paint.
(Important Note: The colour of your flock will be slightly browner than the green paint that you mix, so choose a colour paint that is slightly brighter than your desired modeling flock colour.)

Step 3 - Add the Sawdust
The next procedure is to add the sawdust on the paint. First add a small amount just to turn the watered down paint mixture into a compact sludge. Then continue adding more and more sawdust until it is mixed in well with the paint.
The easiest way to tell when to stop adding sawdust is when you add a bit more and it is very hard to mix in (i.e. it is hard to get rid of the brown sawdust). This is the point where you should stop.
Warning: If you stop sooner your flock will not be fine enough.
However, don’t expect your flock to be as fine as the Games Workshop version at this point for they already perfected the mixing of the paint and the sawdust. That will come sooner or later.
Once you have finished mixing the flock you are ready to move to next step.
Step 4 - Spread Out Your Modeling Flock to Dry
You will now need to spread out the modeling flock to dry. You can use two cookie sheets to dry out the amount of flock made with your desired proportions.
In spreading out the damp modeling flock it should be evenly as possible, then put it in a cool dry place and not be hit by strong winds for 24-48 hours. Make sure it is completely dry before proceeding to the next step, or else you will not get the same quality results as what Games Workshop produces.

Step 5 - Screen the Modeling Flock To Make It Finer
A fine strainer with a small openings you will have in doing the last step and that is to screen the modeling flock through it. There may be bunches that are just too hard deal with. You should really work if this happen until you cannot screen a dust from it. This will not be garbage cause it can be use as a mossy rock on another models.



MiniWarGaming.com provides useful tips and tricks on creating Warhammer terrain, Warhammer 40K terrain, and more. Read more of these tips and tricks in our fully illustrated MiniWarGaming site by visiting http://www.miniwargaming.com

Tags: google, budget, garbage, hindrance, flock, doing research, oz, ml, tubes, cookie sheet, sawdust, dollar store, grassland, carpenter
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Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game.
http://www.miniwargaming.com

Warhammer 40k Bell Tower Project: WIP Part 3

by Matthew Glanfield

(Scroll down for parts 1 & 2 of the Bell Tower Project--Editor)


In the second part of this project we discuss how to paint and prime the bell tower. And we also create a rooftop base to support the bell. In this last part of the sequel on how to create a Warhammer 40k Bell Tower its time to finish what we have started.

Step 1 Create Rooftop base

Cut a base that would fit the rooftop with appropriate side walls. After you finished cutting the rooftop base glue the walls to the base.

Step 2 Glue decorative pieces to base

This step gives beauty and characteristic to the base. You can use the windows from the walls you cut out in the first part of the project. Glue them appropriately to the base in any fashion you desire. Then let it sit to dry.

Step 3 Paint rooftop base

Acrylic black paint is also what to use in painting the base. Make sure that it is strong and can stand on its on foundation before you begin painting.

Step 4 Create upper tower walls

These walls will be used for the bell area. Be sure to make the windows large in ratio against the walls so that you ca clearly see the bell outside. You can damage them a little too if you want a wrecked outlook. As for me i like doing it for new look on the structure nothing is as boring as perfectly in tact buildings.

Step 5 Apply codex gray.

After you finish priming the upper tower walls with acrylic black paint, coat them with codex gray paint. Next step is to coat everything else with codex gray.


Step 6 Flooring

This step is very important for the reason that it adds loads of realism to your structure. Start by cutting the ends off a stack of Popsicle sticks. Lets not count or nor will i give exact number on how many Popsicle stick you cut because it will depend on the structure you decide to make. After you have cut the exact amount of stick you needed in making the floor glue them on to the floors .
You also going to accent the wood floors with snakebite leather then lightly dry brush with bestial brown.

Step 7 Destroy and paint the roof top

The bell tower should be demolished from the back corner all the way down to the bottom. Therefore we are also going to destroy the roof top to match the subsequent levels. Just simply use a utility knife and carve out chunks off the foam board in scraggy shapes. After all the cutting and carving its time to paint the edges with chaos black to add a scorched look.

Step 8 Tarnish the bell

Its time to stain the shiny bell to add new look into it. Use fine grit sand papers or a sanding block to wear away your bell surface. Apply yellow ink then brown ink in generous amounts that can give a tarnished look to the bell. After being tarnished place the bell wherever you want. You can place it on the main floor of the bell tower, on the roof top level or even up on a built contraption.



Tags: step 6, step 2, glue, exact number, step 3, flooring, tact, decorative pieces, realism, wood floors, black paint, sequel, side walls, bell tower
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Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game.
http://www.miniwargaming.com

Warhammer 40k Bell Tower Project:WIP Part 2

by Matthew Glanfield



In the first part of this project we discuss on how to get started in making a bell tower from marking the windows up to gluing the structure together. The steps we tackle in the first part is only the basic in preparation for the second part which is more of painting and beautifying the bell tower. With out further do, this is the continuation of bell tower project. So don't worry if in the last article your project was not finish. Lets start the work going by

Step 1 Cut out base

After cutting out the windows you're going to cut a base out so that the walls have something to stick in to. You can made it just large enough to fit two space marines along the outside of the building once in place.

Step 2 Glue popsicle sticks

Start this by slicing popsicle sticks width channels in each level. Next glue popsicles sticks according to its place. These will give enough support to the structure when everything is glued together and in order. Once finished gluing all the popsicle sticks let it sit to dry for 5-10 minutes.

Step 3 Glue structure together

This is where we make busted up flooring. Make it so it’s able to rest on both walls for stronger support. Hold the walls up perpendicular to each other and glue down the floors until it dries up. This will enable the building to stand by itself. Be sure that the wall can stand up all by itself. Next glue supports to the base. Use the windows that were cut from the walls.

Step 4 Prime the structure


Use acrylic black paint in building when going to base the building. Its better to include when painting the beneath the floors so that if you want to take a picture of it there is an art.

Step 5 Create Rooftop base

Cut a base that would fit the rooftop with appropriate side walls. After you finished cutting the rooftop base glue the walls to the base.

Step 6 Glue decorative pieces to base

This step gives beauty and characteristic to the base. You can use the windows from the walls you cut out in the first part of the project. Glue them appropriately to the base in any fashion you desire. Then let it sit to dry.

Step 7 Paint rooftop base

Acrylic black paint is also what to use in painting the base. Make sure that it is strong and can stand on its on foundation before you begin painting.

Step 8 Create upper tower walls

These walls will be used for the bell area. Be sure to make the windows large in ratio against the walls so that you ca clearly see the bell outside. You can damage them a little too if you want a wrecked outlook. As for me i like doing it for new look on the structure nothing is as boring as perfectly in tact buildings.

This will encouraged you to do more terrains when looking your wrecked and slightly damaged bell tower cause it there will never be a dull moment when you are playing with it.





Tags: step 1, step 6, step 2, glue, continuation, step 3, dries, flooring, decorative pieces, black paint, side walls, bell tower
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Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game.
http://www.miniwargaming.com

Warhammer 40k Bell Tower Project:WIP Part 1

by Matthew Glanfield



In our article for today is all about building a bell tower. So lets just set aside some of our worries and focus our mind in creating something wickedly awesome a Warhammer 40K Bell Tower. The most important component in building a bell tower is a brass bell which can be purchased on a dollar store which is abundant during Christmas season. Now that we had already the brass bell we can already ready to construct. So pull up your socks, demist your glasses and repeat after me,”Warhammer is my life”. Did I say that out loud? Anyway, let’s build some terrain.

Materials list:
• 20?x30? foam board
• utility knife
• pencil
• ruler
• popsicle sticks
• white glue
• an Ipod playing Zeppelin and a little patience while cutting the foam board.(you’ll see what I mean)

Step 1 Marking the Windows

I tried making a Gothic/Imperial guard/city of death look to it. This is the part where your artistic instinct license comes in. Feel free to design and let your mind and basic instinct come to play in choosing your desired design of the windows. Draw your chosen design of the window on the foam board. It would be better to create a lot of windows on your tower. It creates a more clear feeling while looking through the building.

Step 2 Cut out your Windows

Cut out your windows according to what you have drawn, it should be pretty strait forward. This will test your patience sometimes cause you have drawn more windows so expect to cut more windows too. Although this is where you'll need to bite the bullet for a good while and just cut till you are so occupied in your work that when somebody come sup to bother you and call up your name three times, that only the time you begin to respond cause you do not want to be disturbed when cutting out the windows. After cutting out all the drawn windows its better to sand the insides to have a smooth sides.


Step 3 Cut out base

After cutting out the windows you're going to cut a base out so that the walls have something to stick in to. You can made it just large enough to fit two space marines along the outside of the building once in place.

Step 4 Glue popsicle sticks

Start this by slicing popsicle sticks width channels in each level. Next glue popsicles sticks according to its place. These will give enough support to the structure when everything is glued together and in order. Once finished gluing all the popsicle sticks let it sit to dry for 5-10 minutes.

Step 5 Glue structure together

This is where we make busted up flooring. Make it so it’s able to rest on both walls for stronger support. Hold the walls up perpendicular to each other and glue down the floors until it dries up. This will enable the building to stand by itself. Be sure that the wall can stand up all by itself. Next glue supports to the base. Use the windows that were cut from the walls.


Tags: step 1, patience, worries, glue, christmas season, step 3, pencil, socks, ruler, basic instinct, dollar store, utility knife, bell tower
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Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game.
http://www.miniwargaming.com

How to Make Warhammer Stepped Hills

by Matthew Glanfield



A stepped hill for a warhammer! In able to create a warhammer stepped hill you should have focused and set your imagination with warhammer games in mind. So that you come up with a very nice and unique warhammer terrain. By the doing this you should remember all the war movies you have watched and try to imitate the hills that you have seen in the movie. Therefore the top of the hill will be a same as the size of an envelope 3 5/8 x 6 ½ inches in size. On the bottom level it will be wider than on the top of the hill and there should be enough space and room to place a line of at least ten space marines.

Materials:
Polystyrene (Styrofoam insulation)
Envelope 3 5/8 inches x 6 ½ inches
Masonite
brown paint

Step 1. Cutting the top level

Get the polystyrene (Styrofoam insulation) with at least 1 inch thick and then draw the outline of the envelope into it. Next step is to draw an oval shaped guideline 1 – 2 inches around the polystyrene. This will create a gradual slope on the outer edge of the top level. Cut out the top level.

Step 2. Designing the sides

Once the top level has already been cut, begin shaping the gradually sloped sides by slicing away thin shavings of polystyrene it is recommended that use a wire cutter. Give all your best to be able to create a rounded, 45 degree angle without cutting into the envelope outline. Just do all your best and repeat again if it not correct. Be sure to incline the sides with a 45 degree angle so that it will look like a real hill.


Step 3. Making the Bottom level

Then you make the bottom level by tracing the outline of the top level into another 1 inch thick piece of polystyrene. Next draw the outline of the bottom level by tracing around the line of space marines. Continue by rounding off the edges like the top level.

Step 4. Gluing the sides

The Masonite is marked by tracing around the bottom level. Use a beveled edge when cutting out the edge. The only difficult part of this is here, try your very best to make the angle fit with the curve of the bottom level. Glue the three pieces together using hot glue or white glue. You can also reinforce the hill by putting in two toothpicks in between the levels. To speed up the drying process and save some time you can use a hairdryer.

Step 5

Apply a filler to merge the gaps between the steps(Spackle will work fine). Glue clusters of sand and gravel on the hill to give your hill the effect of stony ground. Next is to paint the whole model using any brown paint.

Step 6

By painting the whole model with brown paint it seals the polystyrene. Dry brushing other brown paint can actually be done it is not necessary needed seeing as it will be covered with flock. To finish all of, apply a thin layer of white glue over the hill do not include the rocky areas. And sprinkle with Warhammer modeling flock



Tags: step 1, step 2, enough space, step 3, slope, degree angle, top of the hill, outer edge, shavings, polystyrene
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Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game.
http://www.miniwargaming.com

How to Make Basic Warhammer Bases

by Matthew Glanfield



After all the days work and at last your Warhammer army is now freshly painted. As you looked into your great work of art you can see that all the sacrifices, creativity and patience paid off. But hey your just looking at the Warhammer army and not the whole thing. The bases where the warhammer armies stand on are purely black and without color. You can ignore it and continue playing with the warhammer army. But looking on the big picture putting color in your bases makes the whole item more elegant and adds beauty to it. As we all know that even though you just painted your warhammer army the best paint you cant deny the fact that the base will also add some beauty to it.
So for this article we are gonna learn some important tips and tricks on how to make basics warhammer bases. Doing this project is just like taking the cookie away from the baby. So its time to gather all the materials and continue on painting your warhammer army beginning with the base.
Materials list
-paints (A whole array of color choices are workable for bases)
-brown ink
-small paint brush
-PVA glue (white glue)
-GW sand (This can also be bought from a hardware store or picked up from a nearby beach.
-modeling flock
-newspaper (for setting your minis on while they dry)

Step 1 Priming
Priming the base, for this basing project our theme is the rocky wasteland. Because of its simplicity we will not have a hard time painting the base. Prime the base with scorched brown.

Step 2 Adding Sand
Next step is adding more texture onto the base by doing this you are adding more life on the miniature. So brush PVA glue (white glue) onto the base, you can apply more glue so that there will be a lot sand that will stick onto it. Now sprinkle sand on it, you can choose between dipping the base with glue into a tub of sand and then rap off the excess sand or just sprinkle the sand into the base. So lest just prefer sprinkling cause we can choose the right granule of the sand that we will be putting on the base.


Step 3 Adding a layer of brown ink
After the sprinkling of the sand we can see that theres a lot of loose sand particle in the base. So to get rid of those unwanted loose sand particle, add a layer of brown ink to the whole base for it will lock all the loose sand particle. Because the sand particle is already been compressed and lock it will also give you comfortable time later in painting the next layers of the base.


Step 4 Dry Brushing
After adding the sand and getting rid of those loose sand particle by adding a layer of brown ink. We come to the final detail part of the project the dry brushing. Dry brush a layer of vermin brown and then terracotta to add color. Now the last part of the dry brushing is the adding of bestial brown and snakebite leather.
By adding these layers of dry brushes you’ll refine the bases’ ground terrain and add realism to it.

Step 5 Flock it!
After sitting to dry the base, simply brush on PVA glue (white glue) for the last procedure of the project. By brushing white glue to random parts of the base you can see that it add more variety to the base when you sprinkle the flock.


Tags: step 1, step 2, big picture, glue, hard time, hardware store, flock, work of art, color choices, sacrifices, paint brush
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Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game.
http://www.miniwargaming.com

How to Make Fast Warhammer 40k Barricades

by Matthew Glanfield



In every battle or every war nothing is more important than life or saving your life. You have to find a quick cover or something where you can hide your self. This process is also be a challenge during battle in Wargaming. Not just in real life situations but also in Warhammer gaming.
Instead of finding quick cover where there is a slim chance that you can escape the enemy or avoid the attacks that will be brought to you, why not throw up a or build a few fast barricades to ward or block off some of the incoming enemies. While having a barricade you can think of ideas of how to counter the attacks of your enemies.
For this article you will find and learn tips and tricks on how to make fast and efficient warhammer 40k barricades and ideas for different cover terrain.

Materials to be used:
polystyrene (Styrofoam)
cardboard
straws

Barricade 1 concrete and rebar/corrugated metal scraps

For this step you will need a piece of polystyrene (Styrofoam) and cardboard (ie. From a pizza box)
Simply shape and cut your Styrofoam into any small shape you can think of. This includes cinder blocks, rebar (made from wires), scratch the Styrofoam with a utility knife, bust out chunks to resemble explosions, basically your finished product will resemble a pile of random debris all piled together into one lump.
After you finally piled together the debris of the Styrofoam,base coat it with an acrylic black for the concrete parts of the debris. Afterwards dry brush it heavily with codex gray. Then lightly dry brush it with skull white.
For the corrugated metal parts, apply blood red paints and then dry brush it with graveyard earth, then finally dry brush with bolt metal gun


Barricade 2 Rusted metal pipes

For the metal pipes it is automatic the we use bendy straws, so grab a stack of plastic bendy straws. Cut them up into various sizes or whatever size that comes up to to your mind then glue them together. Once their were glued together already base coat the straws with acrylic black paint. Next, paint on blood red, ad then dry brush it with graveyard earth, and lightly dry brush with bolt metal gun.

Barricade 3 Corrugated Metal bunker

When creating a corrugated sidings using a cardboard, simply tear the cardboard apart so that you can see its corrugated part inside.
This process is simply constructed using a cardboard and popsicles sticks.
Simply glue together a rectangular shaped bunker with the Popsicle sticks as framing and the cardboard as the exterior simply because of its corrugated part. Base coat it with acrylic black, for rust effects paint it with blood red, then dry brush with graveyard earth, and then finally apply a dry brush coat of bolt metal gun.
You should make the windows fit the height of the guns or weapons that fit your army. To achieve an advantage during gameplay you should not glue the roof, it should be detachable, this is very helpful during gametime.
And that's it, you have now your metal bunker with a barricade.

Hope you have enjoyed some basic barricades and ideas for cover terrain.



Tags: chunks, finished product, life situations, polystyrene, straws, black paint, barricade, utility knife, slim chance
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Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game.
http://www.miniwargaming.com

How to Quickly Add Detail to Your Warhammer 40K Tyranid Army

Pictured: GW`s Tau


by Matthew Glanfield



Now you've got a large Warhammer 40k Tyranid army but you are not yet satisfied with its full details so you want to add quick details. But your dilemma is you have got to sacrifice a good paint job in order to save time. In this article you will learn tips and tricks on how to quickly add detail on your army without spending a ridiculous amount of time on painting. And the best part on this is that it would not look like a quick paint job. Just be sure to let it dry first before proceeding to another paint color.

For this article we’ve chosen to paint a termagaunt.


PAINTS
-bubonic brown
-bleached bone (optional)
-brown ink
-yellow ink
-red gore
-scab red (optional)
-blood red

Step 1 Paint bubonic brown
From its original color simply begin by painting a layer of bubonic brown on the skin of your termagaunt. Just paint it smoothly and equal on both sides.
Step 2 Dry brushing the termagaunt (optional, you could skip this step to save time)
Next, dry brush equal amounts of bubonic brown and bleached bone to your termaguant but this step can be skipped if you want to save precious time if you want to. This is just optional if you want to add more detail to your termagaunt.
Step 3 Light dry brush (optional, you could skip this step to save time)
After dry brushing with bubonic brown its time to dry brush again it with bleached bone. Just like the second step this third step too is optional you can skipped this if you want to save time just be sure that you paint the termagaunt perfectly.

Step 4 Washing the termagaunt
(NOTE: Make sure your termaguant are completely dry before ink washing them or you’ll smear the paint. Trust us, you’re better off to wait a few minutes first.)
Here’s the fast detail part. Wash your termaguant with 2 parts brown ink, 1 part yellow ink and 2 parts water.
Step 5 Paint armor
To be able to recognize the armor of the termagaunt from its body you should paint a solid layer of red gore onto your guants’ armor. Make sure that you only paint the armor and not including is body, that is why you need to have fine smooth brush for this.
Step 6 Highlight armor (optional, you could skip this step to save time)
After painting the armor with red gore paint, its time to add some highlights into it. Now add some highlights of scab red into your termagaunt armor. But if you are in a hurry you can easily skipped this step to proceed to the next step to save some time.
Step 7 Highlight some more
Finally, add some last highlights of blood red to your termagaunt to add more details on your termagaunt and do it again on another termagaunt.
There you have it! Quick details in half the time, looking twice as good. Enjoy!



Tags: amount of time, dilemma, step 1, step 2, armor, few minutes, precious time, army, step 3, tips and tricks, painting, paint job, paint color, scab
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Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game.
http://www.miniwargaming.com

How to Make Warhammer 40k Barbed Wire

by Matthew Glanfield




When you have to protect your bunker or your house from burglar, terrorist and wild animals or enemies you gotta have a barbed wire attach to your fence. This will get those people who have bad intentions on you to think twice how to get into your house if you have a barbed wire into your fence.
Plus wild animals will not easily get into your place if you have it because it will get their skin wounded or scratched.
In wargaming adding barbed wire to your warhammer 40k terrain is always good to have some extra protection. It’s a relatively simple and easy process and looks great. Now for this Article we are going to show you step by step how to make barbed wire for Warhammer.

Materials List
-ornaments hangers (or paper clips)
-a reel of garden wire
-scissors
-wire cutters
-pliers
-utility knife

Step 1 cut garden wires

The first step we gonna do is to make three equal sized lengths of garden wire. It is a wire used in gardening can be bought in any hardware store. We' re not just focusing on just garden wires, you can actually use electrical wires as well, or multi-strand wires. But for this project we'll be using garden wires.

Step 2 Strip wires
After cutting the garden wires into three equal sizes its time to get them strip. Strip the wires using a wire stripper or a utility knife.

Step 3 Twist wires
Its time to make it a real barbed wire by twisting the three wires together. Using a thick pair of pliers hold the three wires together on both ends and begin twisting.

Step 4 Add ornamental hangers
After you have twisted the wires its time to put some ornamental hangers to the twisted wires. Paper clips also work well in this step. To put the ornamental hangers simply wrap them around on the twisted wires.
After you place all the ornamental hangers its finish already and you can place it in base.

Tags: step 1, step 2, hardware store, step 3, fence, pliers, enemies, scissors, hangers, wild animals, strand, electrical wires, burglar, ornaments, utility knife, wire cutters
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Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game.
http://www.miniwargaming.com

How to Make a Warhammer 40K Space Marine Bunker

by Matthew Glanfield



An essential of most common terrain pieces. Anybody who has a Space Marine army must have a bunker of some kind. It would be ridiculous not to have one. Besides, Its not difficult to create one.

Materials List

-22?x28? foam board
-utility knife
-fine grit sandpaper
-PVA glue (white glue)
-thin polystyrene (styrofoam)
PAINTS
-codex gray
-skull white
-chaos black
-textured paint (gray)

Step 1 Outlining and cutting

There’s a plenty of sizes that could be used when making a space marine bunker. For this reason I won’t give exact dimensions. It will be adequate to say that sides and roof top will be used. So start by outlining and cutting down 4 sides. Be sure to make the windows the same height as their bolt guns. The height of the walls should be close to double the height of a space marine. Assemble 2 walls longer than the others walls so it will look like a rectangular shape. Repeat this process again and pair the walls.

Step 2 Create wall with door

When creating a wall with a door, set up only one of the walls with a door. The inner wall will then become a good background for the door designs.


Step 3 Glue sides together

Attach all 8 sides together. Remember each wall is actually paired with 2 parts combined. This gives the bunker more permanence and the windows are deep set into the building.

Step 4 make roof
Create a roof out of thin polystyrene (styrofoam). Arch the edges with fine grit sandpaper. Try also to chip out some chunks to be like a beaten and battered bunker. It gives more interesting look. Keep the roof unfastened so you can put space marines inside. You may have thought this was an obvious suggestion, but you’d be surprised at the things that disregarded.

Step 5 Prime then paint
Paint the bunker in chaos black or acrylic black paint mixed with fine sand to produce a textured look. This appear like concrete and gives more design when dry brushing. Later, paint the bunker with codex gray. Once dry, dry brush with skull white and wait till it will dry.
A simple space marine bunker designed, cut, glued, and painted.



Tags: step 2, chunks, step 3, exact dimensions, skull, styrofoam, permanence, polystyrene, black paint, utility knife, rectangular shape, grit sandpaper
This article is free for republishing
Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_489958_32.html Republish How to Make a Warhammer 40K Space Marine Bunker Bookmark and Share
Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game.
http://www.miniwargaming.com

Kevin`s Nightmare

I had a nightmare last night....

It was terrible!


In it, there was an earthquake and I was buried under my
game collection. Axis and Allies was on my head, and it`s
a big game!


I dug myself out.


Then I still lost at Roborally!

I even lose in my dreams!

No respect!

Chaos Khorne Berserker Assembly

by Matthew Glanfield




The Chaos Possessed Model is already been assembled. Its time to assemble another type of model, the Warhammer 40k Chaos Khorne Berserkers. The model may be different from the chaos possessed model including the parts but the assembly maybe the same. So its not confusing anymore if you have already assembled a Chaos Possessed Model. There might be some difference but will not affect on the assembling of the model.
Time to put together some Warhammer 40k Khorne Berserkers. Let’s get started

Materials list
clippers
plastic glue
file

Step 1 Read through instructions/codex

Just like in everything we are going to do, we should always start by reading and understanding the whole idea of what we are doing. For in reading, we easily know what we are the materials we are going to use and the most efficient and easy we are going to finished the job.
So in assembling your Khorne Berserker's you must read the whole context, instructions, and the codex to make sure that you are only going to use the right weapons for your Khorne Berserkers. That is the best you must do before assembling the parts so that you will taking them apart later if you do not like or you have mistaken attach a single part on the other parts.

Step 2 Glue legs

After you have read and understand the instructions or codex. Its time to gather all the parts and materials we are going to use. So that we can now start the assembling of the Chaos Khorne Berserkers
the first thing to do is glue the legs together. Once you have glued the legs, you will find out that some parts will come fully intact while others will not. So there is nothing to worry about that.


Step 3 glue torso

When you are finished with the legs, prepare the torso and then glue the torso together.

Step 4 Glue torso to legs

When you have your torso and legs already glued together. The next step is glue the torso to the legs. It is a good idea to slightly turn the torso to give variety to your figures.

Step 5 glue head

Now that the torso and the legs are already glued together. You are almost half way in finishing the figure we now completed the body the only part left is the head. So to completed the job, we have to glue the head to the body. On the first step, you have already pick your choice for the head. So simply glue the head.

Step 6 glue arms

As soon as the head is attached to the body, you have already to prepare the important part of them all the arms. This is also the the most important step. You must glue the correct arms to the figure. Make sure that you know what arms to attach because if you attach an arm that is not perfectly fit to the figure it will look awkward and ugly. You did not want your figure to look funny just because you did not put the right arms. So be sure on what you are doing.

Step 7 Glue shoulder pads

When you have already finished attaching all the body parts of your Chaos Khorne Berserker its time to attach the shoulder pads. Just simply glue the shoulder pads.
And there you have it.... You have now your Chaos Khorne Berserker.



Tags: step 1, step 2, job, chaos, legs, step 3, weapons, torso
This article is free for republishing
Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_505132_32.html Republish Chaos Khorne Berserker Assembly Bookmark and Share
Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game.
http://www.miniwargaming.com

WarHammer 40k Factory Project:WIP Part 1

by Michael Glanfield

Vehicles, tanks and weapons in the world of warhammer don't just appear in the battlefield as magic they were built in a certain place called the war factory. Not just in the world of warhammer but also in the real world. Vehicles and tanks are made in a war factory. If you have a war factory in your base or in your terrain it is easily for you to create or to have a vehicle that will coincide with the terrain. You can create tanks and weaponry that would best fit in a battlefield that will give you an advantage in the battle. Today, we are going to build one of those factories. Only this one's that we will be creating seen it's fair share of battle.

Materials List

foam board

Popsicle sticks

PVA glue (white glue)

utility knife

fine sand

PAINTS

acrylic black

codex gray

bestial brown

graveyard earth

skull white

Step 1 Outline entrances and windows

The first step we have to do is simply outline or draw in the foam board the doors and the windows. Where you want you doors and windows to be placed at. To give more variety and uniqueness to your project, try to vary the sizes of your windows. Try to add one or two doors on your factory a large door or a garage door.

Step 2 Cut entrances and windows out

After outlining the whole picture of your factory of what is going to look like. Its time to cut the doors and windows that you have drawn. Carefully cut out the windows and doors. By taking care and doing this slowly you allow for better and smoother cutting. By doing this kind of cutting you will ultimately end up with crisper edges which will give you a look ten times better that it should be.

Step 3 Adding extra detail

When you have already cut all the windows and doors that you have drawn. It is time to add some more detail for the exterior part of the factory building. You are going to place another strip of foam board along the second story roof level and along each side of the front entrance. In this way, you are giving the factory building more added variety on it's exterior part. You already know that giving more variety to your projects is very good.

Step 4 Adding floors

After you have added some extra details to the exterior part of your factory building and all your windows and doors are already been cut off. Its time to add the floors. In creating the floor, begin by slicing out channels for the Popsicle sticks where you want your floors to go. Then simply glue in the Popsicle sticks. The next step is glue on your floors. This also braces the walls together.

You can also stick temporary pins through the outside walls into the floors to hold them in place while the glue dries. This also works well when gluing two walls together.



Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. You can visit his website at http://www.miniwargaming.com

Chaos Possessed Assembly

by Mathew Glanfield



Now that you have already purchased a chaos possessed but it is not already been assembled to what its should be look like. All the parts are not yet attached to each other. The only way to have a chaos possessed perfectly look like in the pictures is to assemble it. After opening the box, make sure that all the parts are there and complete. So here are some guides and tips on how to assemble a chaos possessed.

Tools List

clippers

plastic glue

file

Step 1 Read instruction booklet

When you have purchased a chaos possessed kit. It is already included in the box the user manual, a guide on how to assemble your purchased chaos possessed. So before you proceed to assembling, make sure you go through the assembly booklet to see the parts you will be using so that you will not wasting some parts that are not needed. Also, go through the codex and make sure that you know beforehand the weapons that you will be needing and you will attach to your own chaos possessed models.

Step 2 Glue Legs

Now that you have already know what are the parts you needed and the weapons you are going to attach. Its time to start assembling the parts of your chaos possessed model, start by gluing the legs of your model together. The legs may be confusing at first because of the way they fit together, just make it sure that the legs are on the right place before you glue it together. One way to know if the legs are fit together is by close examination you will notice that only certain legs fit together. That is the time you glue them accordingly.

Step 3 Glue torso

When you have already find the perfect fit of the legs and already glued them accordingly, the next step is to glue the torso together. This will give you some confusions for it is easy to stick the torso together.

Step 4 Glue torso to legs

Prepare to attach the torso to the legs after you have glued the torso. Here's a simple tip; It is a very good idea to randomize the position of the torso on the legs. Turning it from left to right as desired.

Step 5 Glue head

When you have your desired model of chaos possessed half done. Its time to pick a head for your model. And then glue the selected head to your figure.

Step 6 Glue arms

Now that the legs and the torso are already attached as well as the head, this next step is to add the arms. To begin with, select arms as desired and glue them to your figure. In the case of possessed chaos space marines, the weaponry for their war gear consists of only a single close combat. That is why the arms that you will be choosing won't matter.

Step 7 Glue shoulder pads

You are almost done with the figure when you have already glued together the main parts of the chaos possessed. This time it is time to add accessories to it, the shoulder pads. This are paddings that will be attached to the shoulders of your chaos possessed. You may need to trim and clip off some of the spikes in the shoulders in order to make them fit on your model.

Step 8 Attach Power supply pack

You are one step closer in finishing your model. This will be the last piece of the puzzle that will give accomplishment to all, the Power supply pack. Glue the power supply pack on the back of your model. Due to the powers of chaos and random mutations, you'll see that some of these have wings growing from them.

Thats it!!! you have already finished you chaos possessed model.



Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. You can visit his website at http://www.miniwargaming.com

How to Make Warhammer Columns

Columns can bring to your warhammer terrain added beauty or sort of. In real life, columns can be found anywhere on your surrounding. In wargaming world columns can be very helpful at times or just a mere structure that is standing anywhere on your terrain board. In warhammer fantasy or Lord of the rings you will most likely run into these columns or various structures. Now for this article we will show you how to make simple columns that can add more structures to your terrain.

Materials List

-Polystyrene (styrofoam)

-utility knife

-fine sand paper

-soldering gun

Step 1 Cut a strip of styrofoam

Prepare the styrofoam that you will be needing in creating a column. Use a utility knife in cutting a strip of styrofoam. After cutting a strip of styrofoam, shape it into a cylinder.

Step 2 Sanding

When you have your strip of styrofoam ready, this time you have to sand away all the rough edges of your cylinder so that it will be smooth on both edges.

Step 3 Solder on grooves

When all the edges of your cylinder is already fine, its time to get your soldering gun, solder on grooves into the cylinder.

(Caution: The soldering gun gets extremely hot so take precaution while using it. It also creates fumes that will be dangerous to your health so its better to wear a mask or its best to do it near an open window or even outside.)

It is better to use a wooden stick to help keep your grooves strait. If you want to add more variety to your column you may choose to weather it by breaking off chunks around the column.

If you finish already weathering your column, you can also paint the column to add more beauty to it. It is better to base it with acrylic black, then a heavy dry brush with codex gray, and for the finale a light dry brush with skull white.

Avast!!! And there you have it your column that can be place anywhere on your terrain.



Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. You can visit his website at http://www.miniwargaming.com

How to Make Warhammer Textured Paint for Terrain

by Mathew Glanfield



Painting your warhammer buildings and bunkers will give your terrain more different looks. It will give the beauty it deserves and just by the looks of it you can tell it and can compare your warhammer buildings to a real one. But if you still want to add more variety and uniqueness to your buildings adding textured paint can gives more realism in that it looks lifelike and made of concrete. You will not need to put concrete to your buildings to have it look like just by adding textured paint will do it. So its time to know how to produce a textured paint. For in this article you will learn hot to simply make textured paint.

Materials list

-container or small bucket

-stir stick

-sand

-styrofoam

-paint of any color

Step 1 select paint

The first thing we will do is picking or selecting the paint that you will be using, when you have the paint you going to get textured put in a pale. When you select the paint you must keep in mind the paints you are always using, now for that reason we usually use acrylic black paints. Because it is usually use a base coat using chaos black.

Step 2 Different types of texture

When you have already your selected paint its time to add texture. This can be done in so many ways. One way and the most common way of adding texture to your paint is to add fine sand to the paint. This can add varying amounts depending on how textured you want it. You will get a feel for it yourself if its time to stop the adding of sand to the paint.

The other way to add texture to your paint is by adding styrofoam bits. In doing this simply grind a piece of styrofoam into your paint.

Next gather your debris and bits. And pour it in the bucket with paint.

And there you have it. You have now your textured paint ready to use.



Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. You can visit his website at http://www.miniwargaming.com

How-to-make-Warhammer-Crystals

by Mathew Glanfield

When you have a cool termagaunt miniature or a beautiful base and you want to add more details on it. How do you wish to add more details to improve its look. Well I've got the you a reason to smile now for the Crystals is the best answer for it. Imagine your base that was being added by a crystal on sides, how cool can that be. This time adding not just the crystals on your warhammer bases but also putting on sand as well as painting it to add more variety. In this article you will learn how to make Warhammer crystals that you can add to your base or on any terrain.

Materials List

-sprues

-paint brush

-sanding paper

-PVA glue (white glue)

-assorted paints

Step 1 cutting your sprues

There is no need to buy sprues on the store just extra sprues that you can see in your working area. Cut off a few small pieces from them, just be sure that its pretty clean from its markings or numbers that was place on your sprues. Because sprues usually comes up with on it. Crystals with any markings on it specially numbers will look quite off. So just double check the sprues that you will use for your crystals.

Step 2 Sand and Shape

After you have your sprues already, begin sanding your sprues into crystal shaped pieces. Imagine that you will put your sprues on the bases of your warhammer miniature so the size will be quite small.

Step 3 Glue crystals to base

When you have your sprues sanded and shaped like crystals, glue a couple crystals to random areas of your base or anywhere you like. Crystals that are glued on an angle give your warhammer base an added touch that looks great.

Step 4 Glue sand

Next, brush on PVA glue (whit glue) onto the rest of your warhammer base and sprinkle on fine sand, and then after sprinkling shake off excess sand that did not stick onto the glue. Then leave it to dry for few minutes

Step 5 Painting crystals

When it is already dry, its time to paint your crystals. Begin by applying your first base coat of color to your crystals. Lets just use a liche purple color paint so that it will be easily recognized. Next, dry brush warlock purple, and then tentacle pink. After dry brushing, give it few more minutes to dry, after that add a wash blue ink. Make sure to water down the blue ink, otherwise it�ll saturate the crystal leaving you with no visible undercoats.

Step 6 Paint the sand (optional)

I f you have some time left and still want to add more beauty to your warhammer, this suggestion can be done. You can paint the sand aside from the crystals, to give good contrast dry brush your sand by codex gray paint. Make sure to leave some of the natural color showing through. And finish it off by lightly dry brushing some skull white.

Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. You can visit his website at http://www.miniwargaming.com

A MiniWarGaming Guide to Good Warhammer Photos

by Mathew Glanfield

Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. You can visit his website at http://www.miniwargaming.com

We all love photos, right? As soon as we see beautiful things, capture those memorable moments and having remembrance to the places that we've visited we cannot forget to take pictures. Pictures reminds us of those certain times that we are happy. Even in wargaming, you would like to take pictures of your recent finished project, that is why everyone enjoys taking photos of their cool terrain or freshly painted armies for remembrance. Whatever camera you are using , maybe a Polaroid camera, or a digital cam, or setting up a nice shot with a demolisher or zooming in to a battle between Aragorn and the wraiths on Weathertop, you want it to be perfect and look good.

In photo you can change the whole thing, you can edit the photo before developing it so that it will look good or you just want it to be normal. In wargaming, the terrain may look great and perfect in real life but a poor photo will diminish any cool factor and dissolve the desire to take to take any more shots.

Whether your a professional photographer or just taking pictures for remembrance you can clearly see the difference between a good photo from a ordinary one.

Background

This will play a very important role in your photos it can be very crucial for this will give the story or plot of the whole picture. When you have a good background for your photos it is easy to say that you can have a pretty picture. When you have your subject placed in a place where there's a lot of trash, can you have a good background? That's not make sense at all, that is what we call poor background.

Well to understand more on getting the best background for your photos, we can take a crater as our object and be as our sample. We put a green ooze on the crater, then just place it in a plain white background, there is no uniqueness on it or there is no story that you can relate with. But you can clearly see the whole object which is the crater. Then put it again on a plain black background, you cannot clearly see the whole object because the background is dark. Which is more prefer to have a good background.

Lighting

When you have the perfect background, then the second important part of having a good quality photo is to have a good lighting. For this will enhance the beauty of your object. Just be sure and always look for a better place where you did not need the flash of your camera. When you are taking photo on a place with strong lights it is not necessary to use the flash of your camera. For this will result a shiny effects on your objects. Just select the places where you can use the flash of your camera for effects.

There are always options

"If there's a will there's a way" that is what the saying goes. Sometimes we thought of having a more beautiful photo but we do not have enough resources, there isn't enough lights for the lighting, there's too much clutter, or everything doesn't fit in the picture. We can use anything that we can see to be use in the picture so that we can have a quality photo.

Basic Warhammer Terrain Materials List

by Mathew Glanfield



We almost did anything about warhammer, but since everytime we do a project we find something missing from our materials. You have bought, assembled and painted your first ever warhammer army. You are now ready to play, but wait...You want some cool warhammer terrain to go with your newly acquired army. Now for this article it shows you the basic materials that we always use and workspace you will use to make some awesome warhammer terrain. You better have this one on your toolbox so that you will finish your project without the hassle of lack of materials.

Basic Materials

1.paint brushes

2.utility knife

3.hammer

4.pliers

5.sandpaper (or sanding block)

6.pen or pencil

7.wire (electrical or all purpose)

8.fine sand

9.modeling flock

10.PVA glue (white glue)

11.painting pallet

12.scissors

13.plastic straws

14.Popsicle sticks

15.polystyrene (insulation foam)

16.Styrofoam

17.metal bucket

18.hacksaw

19.Chaos black spray paint

20.hot wire cutter

21.can

22.tissues

23.newspaper

There are twenty three basic warhammer making materials that we always use in every project though we do not always all of them its better to have them for emergency purposes. Try to keep all this materials in one safe and large container so that it will be easy for you to access if you have something needed. Its better to have a table or a desk dedicated to painting/terrain so that you will have your own workplace. But if you do not have one there is still no problem to it as long as there is table.

For better understanding of the materials to be use we gonna simply list it again but this time with description.





1. Paint Brushes

Paint brushes and raw materials are important in terrain making or miniature painting. It is better to have a set of fine detail brushes with another set of medium sized brushes for terrain. There are so many techniques that you can learn with brushes which we'll go over in upcoming article.

2. Utility Knife

Another very important item for terrain making and you must have it in your box for terrain making. This little thing will become a huge thing and be your bestfriend as you'll most likely use it the most. Be sure to use it with extra careful for its blade can be quite sharp. Always cut away from your body to avoid wounds. And remember to cut things on top of a board or piece of wood so as to not damage the table underneath.

3. Hammer

A hammer is useful if you want to add weathered rock effects to polystyrene (insulation foam). This can also be useful when doing some construction around the base or table.

4. Pliers

These little tools are essential for cleaning up the edges of your miniatures. Those extra fragments around your miniatures can be cleaned up by using this. They�re also useful for holding small items that are drying.

5. Sandpaper/ Sanding Block

This next material is used to smooth the edges around your miniatures. Using sandpaper to smoothen out rocks and ridges is a good technique. I prefer using the sanding blocks as opposed to sandpaper. You have more control over what you�re doing. Sanding terrain pieces also ages them.

6. Pen or Pencil

Naturally a pen or pencil is useful for marking out things such as windows or doors in a building.

7.Wire (electrical or all purpose)

Wire can be used as rebar or barbed wire. As for the electrical purpose, wire will be use to have light on bunkers, buildings, and towers.

8. Fine sand

Fine sand is useful in so many ways. Adding sand to to the bases of your miniatures or as a gaming board surface are just a couple of things you can do.

9. Modeling flock

Adding flock to rocks, trees, hills and miniatures adds to the realism of your game.

10. PVA glue (white glue)

Another raw material when it comes to terrain building. This can be bought cheaply at a convenience store.

11. Painting pallet

These are important if you plan on painting a lot. We can use here a ceramic tile. These are good because the cleanup is easy. They�re also strong and durable. Other options for painting pallets are a Styrofoam plate or a piece of wood.

12. Scissors

Make sure to pick up a pair of good quality scissors. Believe me, you�re going to beat them up pretty good.

13. Plastic straws

Good for making pipes, railings or even barricades.

14. Popsicle sticks

These are extremely useful for making all sorts of things. Wood floors, barricades and stairs just to name a few.

15. Polystyrene (insulation foam)

You can make rocks and hills out of these. Tyranid spires are also a good project made from these.

16. Styrofoam

Similar to insulation foam, styrofoam is also good for making rocks and hills. Regular styrofoam is easier to come by however.

17. Metal bucket

One of these is good to have and is handy for many projects. Mixing paint and keeping sand are good uses for these. A water bucket is also a good idea.

18. Hacksaw

A must if you plan on having wood or masonite bases for your terrain. (Careful not to nick yourself)

19. Chaos black spray paint

These are a wonder if you have a large army to base coat. You get into hard to reach places a lot easier with spray paint.

20. Hot wire cutter

These are used for shaping styrofoam. They run on batteries and are a Godsend for hobbyists. Make sure to be in a well ventilated area while cutting. The fumes may give you a headache.

(WARNING: The hot wire cutter gets very hot and can burn you. Be careful not to touch the wire with your bare skin.)

21. Can

Useful for keeping small things in and for mixing paints. Also useful for cleaning brushes. If you�re adventurous you might even build a fuel tank with it.



Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. You can visit his website at http://www.miniwargaming.com

How to Make Windows for Warhammer Buildings

Pictured: Warlord


by Mathew Glanfield

After making buildings, adding a balcony and fire escapes to the buildings to add new variety. Its time to add more variety on your building by adding a window. Whether a plain window or a broken window it adds beauty to your warhammer terrain. Not just in buildings but with all your warhammer terrain, nothing is as realistic as broken windows on your buildings so that it will not look like an empty building. A shards of glass to slick up your not so special building. Just kidding, we know for sure that everything we make or create is special. Now for our article for today we gonna make broken windows for your warhammer building. We gonna tackle and learn tips and tricks on how to install broken windows to the buildings. Its pretty sure that we gonna finish this project in less than an hour. So get ready to add new twist on your warhammer terrain.

Materials List

utility knife

plastic packaging (the hard thin plastic from various products)

PVA glue (white glue)

foam board

Step 1 Cut Plastic

Instead of using a real glass for our windows, its better to use a hard thin plastic that come from various products to prevent us form getting wounded by the glass fragments. By using also plastic materials we can easily cut it according on what we wanted to. The best place to cut your hard thin plastic is on something that is hard such a piece of board or wood. That way you won't destroy the table the you' re working on. It just a matter of cutting and fitting pieces of plastic.

Step 2 Prepare walls

When you are using a foam board as your walls, you will need to prepare the wall for your windows. You will do this by slicing in behind the surface of your external wall. So that you will only insert the plastic you've just cut later. This will save you some precious time in doing this project. This method does not apply for foam board only but it also applies to any other material you use to be your wall.

Step 3 Insert windows

After you prepared the walls, its time to attach the windows. Simply place the windows inside the walls. There is a best way where in windows can use the walls as a support by making the windows a little bigger than the walls.

After you attach the windows you can glue the edges of the windows on the walls. But you may choose also not to glue them. For this project only we prefer not to glue because it allows for flexible changes in the future.

Now that your windows are already attached on the walls. Its time to add some variety into it, you can add bullet holes in your windows, do this by cutting out a small hole then slicing away from the hole. Actually you can add anything you want to add more spice on your terrain.

There you have it a better new look on windows on your warhammer building. Enjoy!!!



Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. You can visit his website at http://www.miniwargaming.com

How to Make Warhammer 40k Tank Traps

by Mathew Glanfield



Tanks! Tanks! Tanks! A pure steel metal that has great advantage during battles for its durability and the damage it can brought to you or to your enemy. When you attack by a tank during battles it is always been a problem. You gotta have an answer or remedy on how to stop he tank from attacking before it destroy everything.

Have you ever needed added protection against tanks? Perhaps it�s been a problem for most of us. The simple way to prevent or to stop the tank from attacking is to have a few tank traps that surrounds your base. For this reason enemies will have to think twice if they will deploy tanks again to attack you if they see one or more of their tanks fell into your tank traps.

This is a simple project that should take no longer than an hour, depending on how many traps you want to make.

Materials:

polystyrene (styrofoam)

Popsicle sticks

snot green or camo green paints

skull white

Step 1 Cut out triangle from polystyrene (styrofoam).

In cutting out the triangle from polystyrene, the size of every piece of triangle will be determine just by looking on your thumb. Every piece of triangle must be double the size of your thumb.

Step 2 cut off tip

After you cut triangle pieces in as many as you can, the next step is to cut off the tip of every piece of the triangle and then sand the sides and the top of it with a fine grit sandpaper.

Step 3 Scuff up the tank trap

In making a good Warhammer 40k tank traps means making them look battered and war torn. In order for the traps to look like a battered one, you should create small dents and scuffs to resemble bullet holes and explosion shrapnel. You can also add rebar or reo that was made from metal wire to the tank traps. It is better to have your traps to often have to add some variety to the terrain. As we all know that variety is good.

Step 4 Glue tank traps to popsicle sticks

"Two heads are better than one" this saying should fit your tank traps to gain more effectivity and durability during battle. Every single tank trap should be stick to at least two or three tank trap.

Step 5 Painting your tank traps

After you glue them by three its time to put highlight on every tank trap. This will be the final step for this project, the painting of the traps. Apply very light dry brush with skull white or rotting flesh. If you want, you may also add accents such as snot green or camo green for mold. Maybe a red gore or blood red if you want some bloody tank traps.

But whatever color you want to put on them as long as the traps will not be automatically recognized by the enemies.

There you have it a tank trap to prevent enemy tanks to attack.



Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. You can visit his website at http://www.miniwargaming.com

Warhammer 40k Advanced Projects: How to Add a Fire Escape/Balcony & Stairs

by Mathew Glanfield



Every multilevel buildings must have a fire escape, so that it can save life in case of emergency. Not just saving lives but also adding some beauty into the building. Not just in real life buildings that we have to place a fire escape but also in Wargaming. Every Warhammer 40k multilevel buildings must have a fire escape attach into it so that it will look more realistic.

By creating a fire escape or balcony and stairs and attaching it into a building that would perfectly fit the fire escape

Nothing makes your Warhammer 40k multilevel buildings more realistic looking than a fire escape. You can pretty much add it to any building you make and just think of how cool it would look. This is an article for more advanced Warhammer terrain builders. So�if you�re up to the challenge, let�s get to it shall we.

Materials list

-Popsicle sticks

-scissors

-utility knife

-metal mesh (refer to the step 2 for more details)

-PVA glue (white glue)

PAINTS

-blood red

-graveyard earth

-bolt gun metal

Step 1 Prepare the steel frames

Okay, to build a house or any structure it is already understood that you must have a frame or a steel frame. So regarding this matter we have to gather all the Popsicle stick that will be needed in creating the steel frame. This will all be used for creating the frames of the platforms, balconies , wall support and stairs. After gathering the needed Popsicle stick cut off all the ends.

To save some time try to cut the Popsicle stick by group or bundle so that they will be equally cut. After cutting the ends paint all the Popsicle stick with blood red paint.

And then dry brush with graveyard earth color. But do not over paint the blood red paint, just let a portion of the blood red bleed be seen through after doing all this to all the stick its time to dry brush some bolt metal gun for the finishing color on the Popsicle sticks. This is where you will be at your free will for how much or how heavy or light metal/rust you what showing. It is better to have a 50/50 blend.

Step 2 Prepare metal mesh

There are many materials which can actually be used as a steel metal platform but since a screener which is more cheaper and can be brought in any store. This will be our item to be used for this step simply remove the screen from its handle. After detaching the screen try to flat the screen for this will work later.

Then cut off some of the strips of your mesh. Just use scissors for this cutting. For the measurement of the mesh, for the width just measure a space marine and a half

Step 3 Glue mesh to framing

After cutting off some strips, glue down the Popsicle sticks framing to the strips of mesh. Better sure that the mesh is completely flat if you did well in flattening it in second step and not bent or curled. I like to use gravity while waiting for the glue to dry. To bring order just simply place the Popsicle sticks in between to paint tubes on top of the mesh. For one good reason, it is much simpler this way. It is a very nice idea to outline your platform onto a piece of cardboard or anything that is hard but light to handle that is why we choose the cardboard. Then use the cardboard as a template. Simply put the cardboard on top of your mesh and cut out your platform.

Step 4 Glue platforms to building

Glue all the cut out platforms to the already finished buildings using PVA glue (white glue). Just turn the building horizontal for this project, then place again 2 tubes of paints on either side of the platform to hold it in place while drying.

Step 5 Make your steps

In creating the steps or the stairs, start by cutting strips of mesh the width you want your stairs to be. Same as the platforms, we used a space marine as a reference to know how wide we wanted our stair be.

After determining the width of the steps, cut the strips into step sized pieces. And then cut up some Popsicle sticks for the framing. Finally glue the pieces to your mesh like so.

Step 6 Make your Railings

Get some straws and then paint the straws the same rust color as the steel frames so that it will co inside with the color of the frames.

Next, cut and glue them to the platform. Just like what we did in the early part in measuring, use a Space Marine in determining how high or low you want your railing.

Step 7 Glue staircase to platform

After all the procedures it comes down to the final step, glue the staircase to the platform and wait till it dries up.

And there you have it!



Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. You can visit his website at http://www.miniwargaming.com

How to Make Warhammer 40k Craters

by Mathew Glanfield



Craters usually comes as a result of huge explosion brought by bombs, meteors, or volcanic eruptions. In our modern world we can see craters when a bomb explode. We seldom see a crater created by a falling debris coming from the sky because this will leave a very big crater.

But in the Warhammer 40K universe they are an everyday thing so it is unusual if you cannot see a crater. It is therefor a common occurrence to see craters made by things landing from the sky. Lets put as example a dent a lascannon would leave if it hit the ground.

Materials List

-polystyrene (styrofoam)

-utility knife

-PVA glue (white glue)

-Plaster

-toilet paper

-paint brush

PAINTS

-acrylic black

-tin bitz (dark gray/brown)

-graveyard earth (dark brown)

-bestial brown

-snakebite leather (light brown)

-camo green

Step 1 Prepare base

As the saying goes "there are many ways to kill the cat", we can say also that there are many things that we can actually use for creating the base. It is up to you what would be the best material to be use. A piece of thin wood or thin styrofoam will best fit the work. But for this project we use thin wood.

Step 2 Cut out crater bits

Creating a crater bits will be easy as taking the candy from a baby, simply grab the styrofoam and cut out small triangular wedges.

Step 3 Glue wedges

By using a PVA glue (white glue) stick all the wedges you cut out and stick all together to the thin wood that we created for the base. In gluing the wedges, to create a unique look into the crater try to alternate the wedges or leave a space between each wedge.

Step 4 Fill in gaps

After you glue the wedges, you can see that in every wedge there is a gap, fill the gaps between the wedge using a plaster. But if you have a putty you can use it in filling the gaps.

Step 5 paper mache you crater

If you know how to paper mache then this will not cause you any trouble or delay.

Using strips of toilet paper and watered down glue you can now begin to paper mache your crater.

The purpose of the paper mache is you will keep the plaster protected so that it won't chip off easily. The paper mache also gives for a more earthly look on the crater.

Step 6 Base coat

For the base coating just prime the crater with acrylic black paint.

Step 7 painting layers

After the base coating dries up its time to paint and finish the job. Actually there a lot of combination or painting layers to be use. These are our suggested layers to use. Begin with tin bitz (dark gray/brown), and then dry brush with graveyard earth (dark brown). Next dry brush bestial brown and then snakebite leather. Lastly, dry brush a final layer of camo green to give a mossy effect.

And there you have it! Nice, realistic looking craters made easy.




Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. You can visit his website at http://www.miniwargaming.com

How to Make a WarHammer 40k Rusted Steel Shed

by Mathew Glanfield



Hello, This past week I decided to groom my terrain collection with an authentic rusted corrugated steel shed. As you all know I love making warhammer terrain. Especially warhammer 40k terrain. I can make one in less than 90 minutes so let`s get to it.

Here`s a list of the materials we`ll be using:

� A block of polystyrene (insulation foam) or regular Styrofoam
� 18 popsicle sticks
� 2 strips of cardboard 3 inches high and 12 inches long
(the amount of cardboard given to you in a pizza box would be more than plenty)
� Utility knife and scissors
� Paint brush
� Black paint
� Grey paint
� Brown paint
� Rust colored paint (or just a red and brown mixed could work too)
� Silver paint
� Green paint (something that resembles moss color)

I'd loved to see things look blown up and partially wrecked and destroyed, so if you`ve looked at the shed and said "man this looks really beat up," you`ll know it was made by Miniwargamer Dave. Kay, `nuff talk and more building then wrecking I say. Let`s get to it.

Step 1 Prepare and cut the cardboard.

Cardboards are usually flat so you`ll have to peel one layer of the flat sides off in order to expose the corrugated look of the inside. You`ll see the corrugated part once you start peeling. Use a sanding block or sandpaper to sand off any excess bits in the grooves. You can size the cardboards strips however you choose.

Step 2 Glue Styrofoam to cardboard

Cut 4 blocks of Styrofoam equal to the height of your cardboard strips and glue them together.

Step 3 Attach wooden rafters
What you are going to do is to glue down the popsicle sticks to the Styrofoam.

You`ll have to glue 4 sticks underneath the 5 horizontal ones. Those I had to break at both ends then glue together and onto the Styrofoam blocks. Next is glue 10 sticks horizontally-5 on each side.

Step 4 prime the walls/roof with black

Next step is you`ll have to prime your walls black. Cut and shape roof parts as beside the shed. Depending on the glue you`ve used the popsicle stick roof will be sturdy enough to drybrush a few accent colors. Use 2 shades of brown and a lighter green to resemble moss. Next paint the Styrofoam grey to resemble concrete.

Step 5 Paint on the rust ( the best part by the way)

Paint the walls a dark red for the first layer of painting. Don`t worry about making it perfect because you`ll be adding many layers. Next drybrush a dark brown. Finally drybrush a silver grey to certain parts only saving a lot of the rust exposed. In the end you should end up with 2/3 rust 1/3 metallic color showing through.

Repeat the same for the roof . Then glue on the roof pieces. Let it sit to dry for a good 20-30 minutes.




Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. You can visit his website at http://www.miniwargaming.com

Warhammer 40k Bell Tower Project:WIP Part 2

by Mathew Glanfield



In the first part of this project we discuss on how to get started in making a bell tower from marking the windows up to gluing the structure together. The steps we tackle in the first part is only the basic in preparation for the second part which is more of painting and beautifying the bell tower. With out further do, this is the continuation of bell tower project. So don't worry if in the last article your project was not finish. Lets start the work going by

Step 1 Cut out base

After cutting out the windows you're going to cut a base out so that the walls have something to stick in to. You can made it just large enough to fit two space marines along the outside of the building once in place.

Step 2 Glue popsicle sticks

Start this by slicing popsicle sticks width channels in each level. Next glue popsicles sticks according to its place. These will give enough support to the structure when everything is glued together and in order. Once finished gluing all the popsicle sticks let it sit to dry for 5-10 minutes.

Step 3 Glue structure together

This is where we make busted up flooring. Make it so it

�s able to rest on both walls for stronger support. Hold the walls up perpendicular to each other and glue down the floors until it dries up. This will enable the building to stand by itself. Be sure that the wall can stand up all by itself. Next glue supports to the base. Use the windows that were cut from the walls.

Step 4 Prime the structure

Use acrylic black paint in building when going to base the building. Its better to include when painting the beneath the floors so that if you want to take a picture of it there is an art.

Step 5 Create Rooftop base

Cut a base that would fit the rooftop with appropriate side walls. After you finished cutting the rooftop base glue the walls to the base.

Step 6 Glue decorative pieces to base

This step gives beauty and characteristic to the base. You can use the windows from the walls you cut out in the first part of the project. Glue them appropriately to the base in any fashion you desire. Then let it sit to dry.

Step 7 Paint rooftop base

Acrylic black paint is also what to use in painting the base. Make sure that it is strong and can stand on its on foundation before you begin painting.

Step 8 Create upper tower walls

These walls will be used for the bell area. Be sure to make the windows large in ratio against the walls so that you ca clearly see the bell outside. You can damage them a little too if you want a wrecked outlook. As for me i like doing it for new look on the structure nothing is as boring as perfectly in tact buildings.

This will encouraged you to do more terrains when looking your wrecked and slightly damaged bell tower cause it there will never be a dull moment when you are playing with it.




Matthew Glanfield is the webmaster for MiniWarGaming.com, a site that strives to provide useful resources to players of the Games Workshop Warhammer Fantasy, Warhammer 40K, and Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. You can visit his website at http://www.miniwargaming.com

WarHammer 40k Factory Project:WIP Part 1

Kids get into the model making at Kevin`s English Schools.


Vehicles, tanks and weapons in the world of warhammer don't just appear in the battlefield as magic they were built in a certain place called the war factory. Not just in the world of warhammer but also in the real world. Vehicles and tanks are made in a war factory. If you have a war factory in your base or in your terrain it is easily for you to create or to have a vehicle that will coincide with the terrain. You can create tanks and weaponry that would best fit in a battlefield that will give you an advantage in the battle. Today, we are going to build one of those factories. Only this one's that we will be creating seen it's fair share of battle.

Materials List

foam board

Popsicle sticks

PVA glue (white glue)

utility knife

fine sand

PAINTS

acrylic black

codex gray

bestial brown

graveyard earth

skull white

Step 1 Outline entrances and windows

The first step we have to do is simply outline or draw in the foam board the doors and the windows. Where you want you doors and windows to be placed at. To give more variety and uniqueness to your project, try to vary the sizes of your windows. Try to add one or two doors on your factory a large door or a garage door.

Step 2 Cut entrances and windows out

After outlining the whole picture of your factory of what is going to look like. Its time to cut the doors and windows that you have drawn. Carefully cut out the windows and doors. By taking care and doing this slowly you allow for better and smoother cutting. By doing this kind of cutting you will ultimately end up with crisper edges which will give you a look ten times better that it should be.

Step 3 Adding extra detail

When you have already cut all the windows and doors that you have drawn. It is time to add some more detail for the exterior part of the factory building. You are going to place another strip of foam board along the second story roof level and along each side of the front entrance. In this way, you are giving the factory building more added variety on it's exterior part. You already know that giving more variety to your projects is very good.

Step 4 Adding floors

After you have added some extra details to the exterior part of your factory building and all your windows and doors are already been cut off. Its time to add the floors. In creating the floor, begin by slicing out channels for the Popsicle sticks where you want your floors to go. Then simply glue in the Popsicle sticks. The next step is glue on your floors. This also braces the walls together.

You can also stick temporary pins through the outside walls into the floors to hold them in place while the glue dries. This also works well when gluing two walls together